New York City Boomers Will Remember This Street Dessert Well

From Proust's madeleine to retro '90s Jell-O Pudding Pops, almost everyone has a nostalgic dessert. For many baby boomers who grew up in New York City in the mid-20th century, the sweet treat that instantly brings them back to childhood is the Charlotte Russe. Younger folks and non-New Yorkers would be forgiven for primarily associating the name Charlotte Russe with the mall clothing store (which, by the way, was named after the dessert). But for NYC-raised boomers, it has only one definition: a sponge cake-based street snack crowned with a precarious mountain of whipped cream and a maraschino cherry, served in an iconic push-up cup for the eye-popping price of one nickel.

The Charlotte Russe was a seasonal staple, available during the cooler months at local NYC bakeries, candy shops, and convenience stores across the Big Apple. It might be filled with a thin layer of jam or topped with sprinkles, but the maraschino-topped whipped cream spiraling up from the paper packaging never changed. Perhaps even more than the sweet, creamy taste, kids adored its push-up format, which, much like an ice cream cone, absolutely required licking and inspired delightful debates over optimal eating technique.

The Charlotte Russe probably originated in 18th-century France, though the exact roots of its name are unclear. "Charlotte" may have been an homage to Queen Charlotte (wife of George III of England) or to Princess Charlotte of Wales (daughter of King George IV), and "Russe" could have been a nod to Russian Tsar Alexander I. European Charlotte Russes were larger and more elaborate than the individually portioned New York City street snacks, often made with ladyfinger cookies, Bavarian cream, and fresh fruit adornments — French chef Marie-Antoine Carême is widely credited as the creator.

The simpler, push-up cup NYC version was probably brought to the city by European immigrants at some point in the 19th century. This American take on the Charlotte Russe became a well-loved street food and enjoyed widespread popularity throughout most of the 20th century, especially among children in the Bronx and Brooklyn.

Food trends inevitably change over time, and the Charlotte Russe had largely disappeared by the late 1970s (by which time prices had crept up to nearly $0.60). Luckily for boomers with sweet childhood memories of licking Charlotte Russes on the city streets, the kid-friendly dessert can still be found in the pastry case at Holtermann's on Staten Island, one of the oldest U.S. bakeries still serving treats. The Holtermann's version is made the traditional way, with fluffy sponge cake, a thin layer of jam, a small mountain of whipped cream, and the classic paper cup. At the time of writing, it will set you back nearly $2 (which is still a pretty sweet deal).