The Cuisine Anthony Bourdain Called 'Outrageous' And 'Appalling'
Although he enjoyed remarkable success in some of the country's most adored fine-dining restaurants, Anthony Bourdain will always be better known for the culinary adventures he embarked on while filming "No Reservations." He sampled cuisine from corners of the world that many will only ever see on a screen while always observing the "grandma rule" and politely accepting whatever was placed in front of him with an open mind and genuine gratitude. But, as anyone familiar with his true thoughts about Michelin stars and James Beard awards likely knows, he harbored some strong critiques about certain regional fare.
In an interview with National Geographic, Bourdain once divulged that one particular region he was less than impressed with struck a chord close to home. Not close, actually; more like a direct hit. "There's really nothing more outrageous or appalling than what we do in America," he said. "Some of the stuff ... the KFC Double Down, the Cinnabun [sic], the deep-fried macaroni and cheese. We are really the only people who enthusiastically celebrate how quickly we are killing ourselves."
Some KFC and Cinnabon admirers might consider those fighting words, but Bourdain wasn't one to back down from his bleak speculations. He doubled down on his opinion with a candid take on American diners themselves when he said, "You know, I'm not getting fat fast enough; I need stuffed-crust pizza." Still, like many blunt assessments Bourdain uttered in his time on this Earth, his sentiment toward American dining habits wasn't without its nuance.
Fast food struck a nerve with Anthony Bourdain
One could interpret Anthony Bourdain's dismissal of some food here in the States as a blanket denunciation of American cuisine en masse, but he wasn't against all of it. Bourdain acknowledged that American fare can be exceptional. Still, generally speaking, if it was picked up from a drive-thru window, he wasn't a fan. "Oh yes, there's lots of great food in America," he said. "But the fast food is about as destructive and evil as it gets."
Folks familiar with Bourdain's love of an Animal Style burger from In-N-Out are probably confused by the late chef taking a shot at fast food joints. It's not that the contrarian traveler was opposed to the occasional, satisfying nosh. He just thought that Americans could do better for themselves and their community. "We are lowering our standards, in general," he said. "There's nothing wrong with a curly fry or meat on a stick or macaroni and cheese. I just prefer for it to be good, and I like to give my money to a locally owned and operated small business than some massive corporation."
Bourdain didn't just view America's love of fast food as a bottom-of-the-barrel cuisine option. To him, it represented a masochistic commemoration of the lowest common denominator. "It celebrates a mentality of sloth, convenience, and a cheerful embrace of food we know is hurting us," Bourdain said. He was all for the right of every American to eat what they please, he simply thought folks could do better. "I'm all for killing yourself with food — if it's actually delicious," Bourdain said. "But it's not."