Boston's First Italian-Owned Restaurant Didn't Serve Italian Food — It Dished Out This Instead

If you've ever been to Boston, you know that the city has no shortage of great Italian food — Boston's feast of all feasts food celebration in the historic North End is even dedicated to Italian cuisine. But before Beantown had its very own Little Italy, the first Italian-owned restaurant had opened in the city. However, it wasn't an "Italian restaurant" as you might think of one. Specifically, if a diner at Vercilli's, which opened in 1868, looked over the menu, they were unlikely to find pizza or tiramisu. Instead, Vercilli's specialized in French and American cuisine. However, the restaurant still proudly described itself as an "Italian restaurant," and the owners were Italian American.

Why didn't Vercilli's serve Italian food, and in what sense was a restaurant selling French and American dishes an Italian restaurant at all? Well, in 19th-century Boston, Vercilli's wasn't the only one. It was a trend for Italian immigrants to open Italian restaurants that didn't serve Italian cuisine but featured Italian staff and owners. There were not very many Italian Americans in the city at the time, and it's likely restauranteurs speculated that non-Italian customers would prefer more familiar food. In fact, another Italian restaurant, which some claim opened about a year earlier than Vercilli's, J. M. Bonacina & Co., also served primarily French dishes.

For decades, Italian restaurants in Boston remained French-focused. It wasn't until the 1890s — when immigration from Italy to the United States led to an influx of Italians in Boston — that Italian restaurants opened with the aim of serving Italian food. The restaurants catered both to homesick immigrants and hungry Bostonians looking to learn how to eat spaghetti like Italians do. By 1895, there were five Italian restaurants in the city's North End alone (per Boston College). That number grew dramatically in the new century, which also saw the opening of some Italian restaurants that are still serving food today.

Sadly, Vercilli's is no longer in business. While you can't try French food at this Italian restaurant anymore, you can still enjoy a taste of Boston history at one of the city's other historic restaurants. Just head on over to Cantina Italiana in the North End, which has been serving traditional Italian food since 1931. Guests at this elegant old-school spot can enjoy Italian comfort foods like veal Milanese, a classic dish that was one of Frank Sinatra's go-to orders. Or, for a more casual experience, order a pie at the original North End Pizzeria Regina, which has been serving up pizzas since 1926 and now has locations across the city.