Sorry KFC And Popeyes: This Old School Fried Chicken Chain Rules The Roost

I haven't eaten KFC since 2017 when I was forced to get a sad excuse for a meal before boarding a train. It made me sick for two days, so I swore off mediocre chicken chains forever. Ironically, before KFC and Popeyes dominated the market, Southern fried chicken was popular among train passengers in the early 20th century. They didn't get low-quality fast food chicken, but the delicious, homemade kind that you can still relish at places like Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken.

With locations across 13 states, the family-owned, Tennessee-born chain hasn't done badly for itself. I'd question its claim to world fame, but I'd certainly rather see it in Paris and Tokyo over Colonel Sanders's face. Instead of going for what's cheap and easy, Gus's stays true to the original (and secret) recipe the owner, Vernon "Gus" Bonner, inherited from his parents, Maggie and Napoleon Vanderbilt. The chicken here is always fresh, hand-battered, and made-to-order, providing quality at a reasonable price.

When you walk in, the wooden tables and checkered tablecloths make you feel more like you're in a neighborhood restaurant than a chain — probably because Gus's was exactly this for the small town of Mason, Tennessee, from 1953 until 2001, when a second location opened in nearby Memphis. You get the sense that food here is meant to bring the community together instead of just filling bellies. Gus's passes the vibe check with its homey and welcoming atmosphere, but the food is what keeps people coming back.

The food at Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken

Gus's menu is simple and straightforward. Choose fried okra, fried pickles, or fried green tomatoes as starters, then pick your chicken pieces and sides. I recommend getting a plate, which includes white bread, baked beans, and slaw. I also took the risk of ordering a side of greens, which can taste bitter in the hands of amateur cooks. Thankfully, Gus's didn't disappoint me and made them just right. 

Of course, the star of the show is the hot Southern fried chicken whose crispy skin gives way to tender, juicy meat. As the spice mounted with each bite, I took refreshing gulps of my cold beer while wondering what the secret recipe could be. Is the chicken dry-brined or wet-brined? Is the magic in the sauce? Gus will never tell.

My pondering didn't last too long, as my brain was soon overpowered by the smell of warm, homemade pecan pie topped with vanilla ice cream. After my first spoonful, I made a face that made the waitress smile and ask, "It's that good, huh?" I was so lost in the magic happening inside my mouth that I couldn't even answer. Instead, I just nodded while giving her a look that said, "You know it's that good." Here's to hoping that the world sees fewer KFCs and that places like Gus's continue to spread the gospel of fried chicken as it's meant to be: fresh, crispy, and made with love.

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