The Type Of Cheese You Might Want To Avoid At Farmers Markets
Artisan cheese is part of the magic of a farmers market, a decadent treat that pairs perfectly with fresh flowers and local veggies. But you really should pause before buying the first cheese you see at the market, especially if you're eyeing soft, unpasteurized cheese for your next aperitif hour. According to Tonja Engan, baking expert and culinary specialist of the Land O'Lakes Culinary Center, that soft, unpasteurized cheese could be harboring a few surprises.
In an interview with The Takeout, Engan explained that unpasteurized cheese, which is made with raw milk, can contain bacteria that would have been otherwise obliterated in the high-heat pasteurization process. "Pasteurization is the process of heating milk to reduce pathogens and is the differentiator between pasteurized and unpasteurized cheeses," she said. "Raw milk cheeses can have more complex flavor, but they also come with more variability. Pasteurized cheeses offer more consistency and a higher margin of safety, especially important for everyday consumers."
The high moisture content in soft cheeses also provides the perfect environment for harmful bacteria to grow if the wrong kind is introduced. " ... Their moisture content can support bacterial growth if anything goes wrong. It's important to verify clean production practices, proper aging – or lack thereof – and strict temperature control," Engan said.
How to decide if soft cheese is safe to buy at a farmers market
It's smart to take a second look at any soft cheese you want to consume, especially if you're eyeing soft cheese on a cruise ship or if the details on the packaging are dubious. Tonja Engan said when you're on the hunt for cheese at the farmers market, find the best (and safest) varieties by looking for clear packaging and knowledgeable vendors. "Skip anything that feels like a mystery," Engan said. "If a vendor cannot clearly tell you how the cheese was made, whether the milk was pasteurized, or how it's stored, I'd recommend skipping it."
Camembert, feta, goat cheese, mozzarella, burrata, gorgonzola, and brie are all beloved soft cheeses that you could see at a farmers market – and if they're made and stored properly, the unpasteurized versions can be a great find (here's how long brie stays good after opening). If you're lucky, you might even find stracchino, and you can try your hand at Lidia Bastianich's focaccia bread recipe. Just be sure to keep your eyes open for signs that the soft cheese you find is good quality. "Look for clear labeling (pasteurized vs. raw), proper refrigeration, a vendor who can answer detailed questions without hesitation, and clean handling practices," Engan said.