How To Decide Which Thickener To Use For Your Fruit Pie

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Thickener can make or break a fruit pie — underdo it, and you'll end up with soggy-crusted soup; overdo it, and your pie will have a gummy texture and a starchy flavor — so The Takeout asked Joanne Gallagher for advice. As the recipe developer behind Inspired Taste — which she co-founded with her husband Adam — Gallagher has plenty of experience in perfecting pies.

"I usually reach for cornstarch because it gives a glossy, slightly set filling," says Gallagher. Cornstarch can thicken sauce in an instant, and it has plenty of other perks, too. Unlike other thickeners, like tapioca starch and Clear Jel, it's easy to find in stores — but cornstarch isn't always the right choice. According to Gallagher, the best thickener for the job depends on the type of pie you're making, the fruit you're using, and what you plan to do with the pie once you're done.

Still, some advice is universal. "Always mix your thickener with sugar before adding it to fruit, this helps prevent lumps," Gallagher says. "If your fruit is extra juicy, don't be afraid to leave some liquid behind or simmer it briefly on the stove." Once the pie is out of the oven, she advises against digging in straight away. "Remember that pies thicken as they cool, so patience pays off," she says. "Cutting too soon is the fastest way to a soupy slice." Finally, Gallagher tells home bakers not to strive for perfection. "Don't worry if a few juices bubble over, or a berry escapes," she says. "That's the charm of homemade pie."

Joanne Gallagher's logic is straightforward: The juicer the fruit, the more thickener you'll need. "Berries, cherries, and peaches need the most thickening because they release lots of juice when baked," she says. For juicy fruit and berries, she recommends a strong thickener like cornstarch, tapioca, or Clear Jel. She tends to avoid flour, adding, "Flour thickens gently but leaves the filling a little more opaque and can taste a bit doughy if undercooked."

She offers a few tips to help cut down on the extra fruit juice, too. "In our cherry pie recipe, we toss the cherries with cornstarch and even strain out extra liquid before baking," Gallagher explains. But you won't always need to worry about thickening the filling, however. Open-faced pies need less thickener than double-crusts, since there's plenty of room for the steam to escape. You should also use a light hand when you're baking a pie with firmer fruit. "Apples usually need less thickener since they hold their shape and release juice more slowly," Gallagher explains. You can make the perfect homemade apple pie filling by cutting the apples extra small to help release pectin, a natural thickener found in the fruit.

For custard pies — like key lime pie or chess pie, which use eggs to thicken their fillings — you might be able to skip the thickener altogether. "Bananas in cream pie need very little thickener at all — the custard does most of the work there," Gallagher says.

It's your turn to host Thanksgiving, and you're not going to get caught unprepared. So, you decide to prep those old-school pies everyone's nearly forgotten months in advance to make things easier on the big day. Plus, Nana's cornstarch-thickened cherry pie is always a winner, so you plan to make it ahead and pop it in the freezer. But that could be a big mistake; cornstarch and cold temperatures don't play nice. 

"Cornstarch makes a silky, shiny filling but doesn't freeze well," says Joanne Gallagher. "It can turn watery once thawed." Even a few days in the fridge could cause problems. For frozen pies, she recommends tapioca or Instant Clear Jel. "Tapioca gives a clear, stable set that holds together nicely ... and it freezes better than cornstarch or flour," she says. If you really want to up your game, use Instant Clear Jel. 

While Clear Jel can be harder to find in stores, if freezing is your goal, Gallagher says, "Clear Jel is the winner for freezing, since it keeps the filling smooth and glossy without breaking down, which is why commercial bakeries often use it." Can't find Clear Jel at your local Kroger? You can find brands like Hoosier Hill Farm Instant Clear Jel online. Just make sure to note whether it's "instant" or regular. Instant Clear Jel is best for frozen pies; the regular stuff works better for canned fillings. With the right pie filling thickener for the job, you'll easily serve the perfect slice.