The Right Way To Cook Shad For Tender And Rich Fish

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There are many popular types of fish (with varying levels of mercury), but one species that's often overlooked is shad. American shad can be found up and down the east coast. It's the official fish of Connecticut (a state that successfully lobbied to have pizza dubbed its official state food) and also got a shout-out in Edna Lewis' classic cookbook "The Taste Of Country Cooking" when she was reminiscing about foods found in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia. 

Shad is a fairly healthy fish that's low in mercury and high in omega-3 fatty acids and can be delicious if prepared the right way. We talked to Kory Foltz, culinary director at Florida's Sunseeker Resort, to find out how best to cook it. "Shad tastes great, but can be hard to cook if you're not used to dealing with it," Foltz told The Takeout. "It's best cooked in ways that deal with its biggest challenge — tons of tiny bones."

Foltz described shad as "a rich, oily fish with a bold flavor and soft texture, similar to mackerel, herring, and bluefish." He went on to say: "While it shares some traits with salmon, like high fat content and a strong taste, it's less firm and much bonier, making it harder to prepare." His recommendation is slow baking or roasting because, as he explained, "It softens the bones and brings out its rich, oily flavor." Poaching is another excellent method since it keeps the flesh tender, while smoking adds boldness to the already assertive flavor.

One cooking method Foltz doesn't endorse for shad is grilling. "Its flesh is soft and can fall apart easily, plus the bones make fillets tricky." He does admit shad can be grilled, however, so long as you wrap it in foil or use a grill basket. "A grilling basket is super helpful when cooking a whole fish," Foltz enthused. "It keeps it together, makes flipping easier, and helps prevent it from sticking or falling apart." This is important if you're trying to cook an especially delicate fish like shad. One problem with using a grill basket is it can flatten the fish and squeeze out the juices or tear the skin if you're not careful. Even so, Foltz is a fan: "I'd recommend using one since it makes grilling way easier and less stressful." (You can DIY a grill basket with a kitchen tool you probably already own if you don't want to purchase one.) 

If you don't have a grill basket, Foltz had another suggestion. "The best way to flip a whole fish is with two spatulas or a spatula and tongs." He says to oil both the grill grates and the fish and to wait until the fish is done on one side before flipping. Once it's ready, slip the spatula underneath, then steady it with the other spatula or tongs. "Be gentle, especially with shad, since it can fall apart if you rush or handle it roughly."

If you buy a fresh, whole shad in early spring, it may come with a lagniappe: the egg sac otherwise known as shad roe. To be honest, raw shad roe looks kind of gross since the sacs come in pairs that kind of resemble lungs. Once it's cooked, however, it's absolutely delicious; with a flavor that's both mild and rich. It's entirely unlike caviar since the latter type of fish eggs are brined. Shad roe can be baked, poached, or smoked; but one of the easiest and tastiest ways to cook shad roe is to pan-fry it.

To prepare shad roe for pan-frying, first use your trusty kitchen shears to cut the two sacs apart. Next, dip the roe in seasoned flour, then fry it for two minutes on each side in hot oil, melted butter, or some other fat. By cooking it in bacon grease you can add a hint of smoky flavor. It's worth noting that shad roe tends to take on the taste of whatever it's cooked with, so season well.