The Unusual 1950s Party Sandwich You'd Mistake For A Cake Today

The middle of the 20th century was a weird and not always wonderful time for American cuisine. By the 1950s, Jell-O had changed the definition of salads but not always in a good way. Shrimp wiggle, a dubious dish dating back to the late 1800s, was apparently still going strong in the '50s as well. Another mid-century marvel that has been largely forgotten was the frosted tea sandwich, or ribbon loaf, a savory entree that looked just like a cake ... until you bit into it, at which point, surprise! There was nothing sweet about it (in either the flavor or metaphorical senses).

Recipes for this loaf cake may call for several different types of filling, such as chicken salad, egg salad, pimento cheese, and deviled ham with pickles. These are spread between layers of white bread — you can either cut a whole loaf horizontally or line up a few pieces of the standard sliced sandwich bread, since everything will be covered by a "frosting" made from cream cheese mixed with milk or cream and maybe some mayonnaise. The frosting is then spread over the top and all four sides of the "cake." Needless to say, this creation involves quite a bit of effort, which may not necessarily be appreciated by 21st-century palates.

Although you're unlikely to see it on the menu at your local IKEA restaurant, the Swedes have a similar sandwich loaf called a smörgåstårta. It, too, seems to have been super-popular in the mid-20^th century. As with many traditional foods, no one seems quite clear on the origins. Unlike its American counterpart, this sandwich cake seems to have remained relatively popular in Sweden since people will still trot it out for celebrations (especially at Midsummer).

The Swedish version of a sandwich loaf is made with either rye or white bread and may be square or round. It often includes an egg salad layer but omits the ham and chicken salad. It also foregoes the South's iconic pimento cheese but instead may have a layer of chopped vegetables and another of smoked fish. A smörgåstårta is typically frosted with cream cheese, just like a ribbon loaf. The Swedes, however, make it easier to identify what's inside because these cakes may be garnished with a variety of sliced vegetables, along with other savory items such as shrimp and boiled eggs.