The Overlooked Southern Town That's Home To Kroger's Biggest Deli

First established in Cincinnati, Ohio, in 1883, Kroger is the oldest grocery store chain in the United States. Yet despite its years, the national grocer has always taken innovation seriously. It was one of the first stores to include a bakery, and it pioneered at-home delivery even before cars existed, using horse-drawn wagons to bring people groceries. Kroger has since grown significantly, boasting nearly 1,250 locations around the country. To further cement its nationwide status, the chain is now looking to set a new standard for in-store delis. 

A new, massive 6,500-square-foot Kroger deli recently opened in the Northern Kentucky town of Edgewood — featuring an innovative concept that recreates the feel of a neighborhood deli, providing fresh, inexpensive food, and a place to sit down and eat. Besides its impressive size — more than three times larger than an average Kroger deli — the complex stands out for its more intentional food offerings. Customers can get regular sandwiches to go, but dedicated chefs also create special menus with house-roasted meats for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Open kitchens with high-top tables allow customers to watch chefs at work before digging into their meals. 

Just across the Ohio River, Edgewood is near Cincinnati — home of the grocery store's national headquarters. It's common for retailers to test new concepts near their headquarters where management can observe and see how they perform. In fact, this blueprint might become a new model for grocery delis around the country. After all, if the chain popularized in-store bakeries, it could eventually do the same with delis that serve as community hotspots. Edgewood's store will help the company test whether this model has any legs. If successful, the ambitious project could likely spread to other stores. 

Edgewood — a town of 8,400 people — is only around 15 minutes away from both the Cincinnati-Northern Kentucky International Airport and downtown Cincinnati. The spot also serves as a halfway point between Cincinnati and Big Bone Lick State Historic Site in Kentucky. Visitors could easily stop at the grocery store to stock up on snacks and sandwiches before continuing to the landmark to see fossils and bison.

Northern Kentucky is also recognized for the quality and diversity of its food scene. Edgewood residents are accustomed to having a wide variety of delicious restaurants available at their whim. On any given day, they can simply cross the Ohio River for fresh produce at Findlay Market or a plate of indulgent Skyline Chili. They can also stay in their state and get specialty Honduran coffee at Unataza or head to Covington to sip 100-year-old vintage liquors. In other words, residents aren't going to be impressed with subpar rotisserie chicken or mediocre sandwiches.

If Kroger wants to win over the hearts of these gastronomically spoiled Northern Kentucky residents, it's going to have to serve great food and create a cozy space that will convince them to hang out at a grocery store. Success in Edgewood could be a good way to gauge if the model has a chance in other places.