The '70s Burger Chain That's Barely Still Holding On

Ahh, the '70s, a weird and sometimes wonderful time. It was the heyday of disco (and also disco fries) as well as being a boom time for Bicentennials, bell-bottoms, baby food for adults, and bygone burger chains. (One of these — Burger Chef, by name — was the first to offer toys with its kids' meal in a move that likely inspired McDonald's Happy Meal some half a decade later.) One regional restaurant that got its start in the '70s is still hanging in there, but just barely. Max & Erma's once boasted over 110 locations in twelve states but is now down to a mere seven stores.

The chain got its start in 1972 in Columbus, Ohio. It still maintains a presence in that state, if not that city. The nearest one is in Lancaster, some 30 miles away. It also has a toehold in Indiana (one location), Michigan (one location), and Pennsylvania (two locations) in addition to its three Ohio outposts. Max & Erma's maxed out, so to speak, in the early '00s. Ever since hitting that high point, it's been on the decline. There doesn't seem to be any particular reason for the slow fade; no dramatic food poisoning scandals or bankruptcy filings. Just several changes in ownership as well as the infamous economy. (It's always the economy.) Still, as former CFO Bill Niegsch once pointed out, any restaurant that makes it to the half-century mark has nothing to be ashamed of.

The words "burger chain" may bring to mind thoughts of golden arches or scary-looking monarch mascots, but Max & Erma's never fell into the same category as McDonald's or Burger King. While you can certainly get takeout or delivery (as is the norm in a post-pandemic world), it's really more of a sit-down restaurant along the lines of Red Robin, albeit on a much smaller scale.

Max & Erma's burgers have always been pretty bougie — a menu dated 1981 shows the chain's signature garbage burger with four cheeses (American, cheddar, mozzarella, and Swiss), bacon, mushrooms, onions, guacamole, and marinara. It remains on the menu today and has been joined by a burger topped with roasted garlic cheese spread and smoked bacon marmalade, a burger featuring cherry cola barbecue sauce and caramelized onions, and a Southwestern-style veggie burger. In addition, Max & Erma's also sells steak, chicken, seafood, and pasta. There's also a large selection of pub-style appetizers such as nachos, wings, and soft pretzels as well as a selection of entree salads and both French onion and tortilla soups.

Max & Erma's doesn't stint on desserts, either. The menu currently features funnel fries, chocolate cake, cheesecake, cookies, and banana cream pie — but the real highlight is a tableside make-your-own sundae bar. This, too, dates back at least as far as the early '80s. It was all-you-can-eat back then. This policy seems to have persisted through the 20-teens, but these days you're limited to three scoops of ice cream. You can, however, still pile on as many toppings as will fit in the dish.