Don't Waste Your Money On Wagyu Burgers

Wagyu steak is one of the most celebrated, sought-after cuts of meat. It stands to reason that wagyu burgers would be the best of the best, too. Right? 

Wrong — according to Chicago-based chef Russell Kook. Kook is the executive chef at The Bellevue, an upscale bar and restaurant specializing in elevated American cuisine. According to Kook, wagyu burgers aren't just pricier — they're simply not as good. The chef says that wagyu burgers are difficult to cook, and don't produce the kind of results you'd want for the premium price. 

"I don't think wagyu burgers are worth the splurge," Kook says. "For that price you can invest in some beautiful steaks. I prefer to use prime burgers which have a perfect balance of flavor and texture at a great price." Kook isn't the only chef who hates wagyu burgers: Anthony Bourdain couldn't stand these bougie beef burgers, either. 

The thing that makes wagyu steak so special is its exquisite marbling, which gets lost when the meat is ground into a patty. "The best way to eat wagyu is as a steak cut," Kook explains. "You lose a lot of the best properties by grinding it down. A prime American burger is a much better meal and value."

According to Kook, you're not just wasting your money on wagyu burgers. You're actually getting an inferior product. For one, wagyu burgers aren't exactly the same as wagyu beef: They're typically made from different, inferior cuts that wouldn't be used for steaks. Even inferior cuts of wagyu are better than your standard beef, but, even so, the percentage of actual wagyu in your burger is likely low. These burgers are typically made with American wagyu blended with standard beef. 

"Wagyu burgers can come from various parts of the animal," Kook explains. "They are way more challenging than the wagyu steaks to cook." Wagyu tends to be fatty, which makes for flavorful steaks. But in a burger, the fatty meat makes for soggy, greasy patties that sputter on the grill. "American burgers are typically 85/15 lean-to-fat ratio while wagyu is closer to 70/30," Kook explains. "The extra fat content can lead to a lot of flare ups on the grill." 

Even if you're a competent grill master capable of handling splutters, the fatty burgers simply won't taste as good. While many chefs recommend a slightly higher fat percentage — 80/20 is a popular lean-to-fat ratio that makes for tasty, juicy burgers — you start to get diminishing returns with fattier meat. "Due to the high fat content, they don't get the satisfying crispy edges or caramelization that American burgers provide," Kook says. Instead, look for high-quality American meat.