The Oldest Cocktail Lounge In Milwaukee Is The Birthplace Of The Pink Squirrel

When I bought my house on Milwaukee's South Side, I was delighted to note its close proximity to the city's most venerable cocktail lounge, Bryant's, which has been in business since 1938. (Actually 1936, although for the first two years, it was strictly a beer joint.) I've been to the bar several times, but the main attraction for me is neither history nor convenience. Instead, I'm tickled pink (so to speak) by the fact that Bryant's is the birthplace of the Pink Squirrel. This is one of my favorite vintage cocktails and a must-try for fans of sweet, creamy drinks.

The Pink Squirrel, which Bryant's has never needed to promote as a drink for pink pony girls or Barbie fans, was invented in the 1940s, most likely by original bar owner Bryant Sharp. The ingredient that gives the drink its rosy hue and nutty flavor (the probable source of the "squirrel" part of its name) is crème de noyaux, while the other two ingredients are white crème de cacao and heavy cream or, in Bryant's version, ice cream. Boozy ice cream drinks are a supper club staple in Wisconsin, and Bryant's offers several dozen. Another Bryant's original I've ordered once or twice is the Blue Tail Fly, which Bryant's says is flavored with vanilla and bitter orange. To me, it tastes just like the mysterious Blue Moon, an ice cream flavor that may also have originated in Milwaukee. While the Blue Tail Fly is certainly delicious, the Pink Squirrel will forever be my favorite.

Interestingly enough, for a bar that invented the famous Pink Squirrel, Bryant's actually prides itself on being menu-less. It claims to have over 450 cocktail recipes on some type of list, but it's not one provided to the customer since the mixologists prefer to quiz you on your flavor preferences before making a recommendation. Once a year, however, Bryant's goes all-in on a holiday drink called the Tom and Jerry.

This festive cocktail dates back to the 1820s, predating the cartoon of the same name by well over a century. It was created in England, but was adopted as a classic Wisconsin cocktail back in the mid-1800s and still enjoys a popularity in this state that's pretty unprecedented elsewhere. Bryant's version, made from scratch with an old family recipe, includes both brandy and rum along with a batter consisting of butter, eggs, and powdered sugar flavored with allspice, cloves, nutmeg, and vanilla.

In late November each year, Bryant's rechristens its top floor, which is ordinarily known as the Velvet Room, as the Tom and Jerry Room. Drinks are ordered at the bar, then the customer is given a ticket to take upstairs to receive their Tom and Jerry. The lounge is open until a few days after Christmas, and customers wanting a memento can sometimes purchase a souvenir mug to take home.

Bryant's has a 4.5 rating on Tripadvisor, with most patrons praising both the drinks and the kitschy but elegant mid-century vibe. Some people do seem a bit taken aback by the neighborhood, however, which could be described as slightly sketchy. Since Bryant's stirred up its first Pink Squirrel, the area has undergone numerous changes.

During the first few decades of the 20^th century, the Historic Mitchell Street neighborhood was quite prosperous, and Mitchell Street — just one block south of Bryant's — was nicknamed "the Polish Grand Avenue." When much of the shopping relocated to the suburbs after World War II, the neighborhood struggled. At present, our zip code is considered to be one of Milwaukee's most economically vulnerable. Still, what we've lost in wealth, we've gained in diversity. Today's South Side is largely Hispanic, but there's a Somali-owned grocery store and an Indian-Pakistani restaurant within a five-minute walk of Bryant's. 

I always like to think of Bryant's as the anchor of the neighborhood, and I name-drop it whenever I need to explain where I live. Everyone knows and loves the bar, which has stood watch over its corner through good times and bad. The fact that it draws in people from all over the city has also had an unexpected bonus for me and my neighbors. Even if this isn't the most affluent part of town, it's always easy to catch an Uber.