Why 'Government Cheese' Is On The Menu At Wahlburgers

Wahlburgers, one of the fastest-growing restaurant chains in the nation, allows customers to customize their burgers and sides to the nth degree thanks to a variety of unique toppings and sauces. Under the cheese options lies one unusual selection bound to get your attention. Along with white cheddar and pepperjack is something called "government cheese." 

This topping has a history going back decades, all the way to the childhoods of the famous Wahlberg brothers, Paul, Mark, and Donnie, who own the chain. According to a post on the restaurant's Facebook page, "Growing up in a house with 9 kids, money was tight. Back then, the government gave out blocks of American cheese to folks who needed a hand. So today, we call our premium American cheese 'Government Cheese' as a nod to our family's roots, with gratitude for where we came from." People in the comments echoed that they, too, had relied on bricks of what is sometimes called "pasteurized gold." In other interviews, Donnie Wahlberg has said that the cheese was unique and ideal for burgers.

The restaurant's version of this easy-melting cheese is just pasteurized process cheese containing "milk, cream, water, sodium citrate, salt, cheese culture, sorbic acid [preservative], citric acid, enzymes, soy lecithin, [and] color added," according to allergen info from 2024 — and that probably isn't that far from the original government cheese.

Government cheese has been a lifeline to people in need. Starting in 1949, the government began to purchase dairy from farmers in order to stabilize U.S. farms. A surplus of milk began to build until it was too much to deal with during the 1970s. Rather than let the milk go to waste, the U.S. government made cheese out of it and began filling storage facilities  —  including a cave in Kansas  — with the stuff.   

In the early 1980s, the general populace became aware of the cheese caves. This was a time with a lot of food scarcity throughout the United States, with many struggling to survive on food assistance. In 1981, President Ronald Reagan announced that the government would distribute 30 million pounds of the stockpiled cheese to needy citizens for free. 

Government cheese, also called surplus cheese or commodity cheese, kept for ages, and while it had an unsteady reputation, some liked it due to its flavor or versatility as a cooking ingredient. Distribution of this cheese stopped in the 1990s, and while times have changed, the U.S. government has continued stockpiling cheese for the past 100 years, meaning it could start doling out government cheese again any time. Until it does, Wahlburgers is here to satisfy that processed cheese itch. However, some critics have noted discomfort with the marketing of pricey food using a type of cheese meant to help those who experiencing food insecurity.

With such an unusual and curiosity-piquing menu inclusion, you can guess that it's caused a little bit of a stir. Wahlburgers' use of the term "government cheese" has been discussed in numerous forums. Many people have leapt at the chance to taste something that they remembered fondly from their late '80s childhoods, and some reviews praised the cheese. One Yelp reviewer asked, "Who doesn't love a good slice of government cheese?! Delicious (greasy) burgers and the buns are so soft. THE BEST!" Even a Redditor not totally sold on the other food had to add, "That government cheese tho..." In fact, Wahlburgers' version of government cheese was even available in select grocery stores for a time, for those who wanted to try a bite of history from home.

However, not all reviews were glowing ones. Some Yelp reviewers compare the cheese unfavorably to Velveeta or packaged American slices, with one Yelper writing, "EW! I don't know what the hell I thought 'government cheese' was going to be, but I'm pretty sure it's a Kraft single..." Those who fondly recall government cheese have sometimes said that it's just not the same, with another unhappy customer stating, "Actual government cheese hits different than whatever Wahlburgers is serving." So, in the end, it really is a matter of taste, and the jury is still out on this dubious delight. Luckily, Wahlburgers is still known for making high-ranking pickles, so there's at least one area of its burger biz that isn't up for debate.