This Unique Step Is Why Some Mezcal Tastes Smoky

Have you ever wondered why mezcal often has that intoxicating smoky flavor? It all comes down to one ancient step that's deeply rooted in Mexican tradition. Mezcal's signature smokiness arises from roasting the agave piñas, the hearts of the agave plant, in underground pits lined with volcanic rock and fueled by damp pine or oak wood. This ancestral method involves digging a pit, heating volcanic stones until they glow red-hot, and slow-roasting the agave on top for at least 12 hours.

The difference between agave spirits like mezcal and tequila, which is usually steamed in industrial ovens using modern machinery and sometimes blended with sugarcane distillate, is that mezcal is crafted through traditional, manual processes. This slow roasting triggers the Maillard reaction, caramelizing sugars and producing the complex smoky and earthy notes that define mezcal. The artisanal process likely preserves its terroir, so each region — and even each town — can create a mezcal with a distinct personality shaped by local traditions and the master distiller's craftsmanship.

The magic of mezcal doesn't end once the agave leaves the pit. Its strength lies in how those ancient methods shape every decision that follows. Each mezcalero works with the agaves that thrive in their soil, using intuition honed through generations rather than recipes or machinery. The result: Wildly distinct bottles that reflect their makers and the land they come from. Smokiness in the flavor is part of this.

As mezcal gains global fame, debates over authenticity have intensified. Industrial producers experiment with faster roasting and mechanized milling, but purists argue that these shortcuts strip the spirit of its depth and soul. True mezcal, some say, carries smoke, earth, and time itself — a sensory record of the hands that made it. Whether sipped from a clay copita as part of an intro to Oaxacan food or poured into a Manhattan and mezcal cocktail mashup at a tequila bar, mezcal remains a bridge between Mexico's past and its evolving present.