The Los Angeles Restaurant Where Orson Welles Ate Lunch Almost Every Day

Los Angeles has no shortage of decadent, elevated restaurants, many of which are (allegedly) the originators of now-classic dishes, such as the Cobb salad from the Brown Derby. However, one restaurant truly served as the hub of L.A. celebrity life: Ma Maison. Luckily, you won't have to read about celebrity eating habits here. Ma Maison was founded in 1973 by a French restaurateur, with backing from the likes of Gene Kelly. In 1975, Wolfgang Puck of canned soup fame (and you know, Spago) joined the team. 

A French restaurant using fresh, farm-to-table ingredients in L.A. might seem commonplace now, but in the mid-1970s, such a thing was rare. Before Puck joined the team, Ma Maison served uninspired dishes such as beef belly and canned sardines. The decor had rubber duck lighting — even Gordon Ramsay couldn't have saved these "Kitchen Nightmares."

When Puck joined the team, everything changed. He personally drove around to farms between L.A. and San Diego to find the best produce, and in the process, overhauled the menu to display the produce California is now known for. Puck's mash of French technique (lamb tenderloin with Roquefort sauce, anyone?) and California vibes proved to be a hit — especially with filmmaker Orson Welles. He ate at Ma Maison constantly, so much so that Puck used him as a test subject for new dishes.

Ma Maison became known for its classic Hollywood decadence, which is partly why it was Orson Welles's favorite restaurant. By that time, he had sadly faded from the great cinematic heights he had achieved, and he struggled with destructive eating and drinking habits. However, Welles wasn't the only celebrity to dine at Ma Maison. The restaurant was easily spotted if you were to drive past, not because of any signage or address number, but because of the Rolls Royces packed in the tiny parking lot. Actors Jack Nicholson and Marlon Brando were regular fixtures, and musicians Elton John and Bonnie Raitt were known to dine there as well. It was also a place known for its power and "drunk lunches" hosted by lawyers and businessmen. Ma Maison heightened its mystique by refusing to list its phone number for reservations.

So how could a restaurant that was the place to be seen in L.A. fall from grace? Well, less "grace," and more "debauchery." It all started when the sous chef, John Sweeney, was charged with murdering his ex-girlfriend, actress Dominique Dunne. Sweeney was known as being possessive and abusive, and he reportedly strangled her after an argument while she was rehearsing with a friend. He didn't serve much time in prison, and some believed that the Ma Maison founder, Patrick Terrail, stuck up for him. Terrail denied such involvement, but sensing a PR nightmare, many celebrities simply stopped showing up to Ma Maison. From melodrama to murder, the history of this L.A. hangout is a bit like a Hollywood film.