The One Type Of Frozen Puff Pastry That's Not Worth Buying

Store-bought puff pastry can be a real lifesaver, as making the laminated dough at home can be a laborious and time-sucking process which even pros like to avoid. With its hundreds of flaky layers and buttery richness, it's the secret behind everything from breakfast hand pies to tomato tarts. But not all puff pastry is created equal. In fact, if the box doesn't say "100% butter," you're better off leaving it in the freezer aisle. Vivian Villa, chef and founder of Villa's Authentic Sauces as well as UnButter, couldn't agree more. 

"Even though they puff the same, I prefer the taste and color of all-butter puff pastry," Villa told The Takeout. "Puff pastry made with shortening often contains hydrogenated fats and other unsavory ingredients." In other words, the issue comes down to fat. Traditional puff pastry is made from just four ingredients: flour, water, salt, and cold butter. It's that butter, folded meticulously between layers of dough, that gives puff pastry its signature rise and melt-in-your-mouth texture. When baked, the water in the butter turns to steam; creating distinct, airy layers.

Many widely available frozen puff pastry brands cut costs by using cheaper fats instead of real butter. Trust us, you'll be able to taste the difference. "In addition to the flavor, the moisture in butter creates a tender, delicate flake that melts in your mouth," Villa adds. "Shortening-based puff pastry is tasteless, not as golden, and leaves a greasy film on the tongue."

Flavor is obviously the biggest part of the equation. Butter has an unmatched depth and complexity. It browns beautifully, carries both sweet and savory notes, and complements everything from fruit to cheese. In contrast, puff pastry made with oils often has a flat or waxy aftertaste. And no matter how beautiful your finished product looks, it won't taste the way it should. Which is the whole point, right?

Texture is another major issue. Instead of those satisfyingly distinct layers which flake under a fork, you'll get something that feels more crumbly and bland. Butter really does make everything better. The good news is that all-butter puff pastry does exist, so it's worth seeking out. Brands like Dufour (and Trader Joe's during the holidays) deliver a flavor and texture that rivals homemade. Yes, it'll cost more; and yes, it's totally worth it.

Next time you go shopping, don't be tempted to grab the cheaper version made with palm oil or other hydrogenated fats. "Check the ingredient deck," Vila advises. "Butter should be the second ingredient after flour — there should be no additional fats or shortenings added." The pastry may still 'puff' in the oven, but it will lack the golden color, rich flavor, and delicate texture of the real thing.