The Colonial Era Dessert That Was Served At George Washington's Family Celebrations

He was the first president of the United States of America. He was the general who helped lead the American colonies to victory over the British. He's the face on the one dollar bill. George Washington has taken on such a mythic dimension that it can be difficult to remember that he was an actual guy who lived. He was a real, multifaceted person, one whose many merits were matched by deeply-rooted flaws, including his participation in two of America's original sins, slavery and Native American genocide. Hashing out his legacy is a complicated, heavy task best left to historians. So instead, we're going to talk about George Washington's favorite cake: a colonial concoction known as "Great Cake."

Unlike some other dessert-loving presidents, like Ronald Reagan and his jelly beans or Joe Biden and his ice cream, Washington didn't have much of a sweet tooth. He preferred simpler food, and when he wanted to indulge, he was more likely to eat fruit or nuts than a specially-prepared dessert. Still, he was a generous host, and he would often eat his wife Martha's specialty of Great Cake when entertaining. (Although it was Martha's recipe, the actual baking was done by slaves.)

The dessert "Great Cake" most closely resembles the panettone, that beloved Italian fruitcake, perfect for converting into French toast once it goes stale. The ingredient list is full of dried fruit like currants, various kinds of candied fruit peels, some nuts and spices, and both Madeira wine and brandy. But not only was Great Cake denser and more packed with fruit than panettone, it was considerably more involved than those cute little rounds you buy in a box from the supermarket: When it was baked for the Washington household, large quantities of ingredients were used, including some forty eggs and five pounds of butter. The whole thing would bake in the oven for five and a half hours before it was ready.

The modern recipe was passed down directly from Martha Washington to her grandchildren, and it was a particular favorite of Martha Washington for the date of January 6. Not only was it Twelfth Night, also known as the Epiphany or the last day of Christmas, but it was also her and George's anniversary. However, as it was such a big project, the cake was usually made several weeks in advance — again, by the Washington family's slaves.